Norway, 2007

Day 1 Saturday 21st August

Norway, (the land of Nogs, Fjords, Trolls, expensive beer and fantastic wreck diving) has been on my �Must go� dive agenda for far too many years to think of. However a combination of new kitchens breeding and moving house had scuppered all my previous plans to get out there, but that was about to change.

Its Saturday 5 July 2007 and 11 divers from Warrington Sub Aqua are boarding the Jane R in Bergen harbour, following the 26 hour trip by ferry from Newcastle across the North Sea. I never though I would say it, but there's only so much beer that you can drink (or afford for that matter).

By 6.30 were fully loaded and on our way to Fedje, a small island a few hours sail from Bergen. The sun is shining and it is definitely shorts and factor 30 weather. On arriving in Fedje we find that the two pubs are packed out with locals and not letting anyone in. Oh well time for a deck party.

Day 1 - Time to Get the Diving Underway

Next morning and there are a few people up early pottering around the deck, prep�ing diving gear and getting ready for the first dive latter on that morning. Given the exceptionally long days this far North (sun didn�t set time 11.30pm) the morning dives were really a late morning so no need to crawl out of the bunks early. Although with the amount of snoring going on down below, lying in bunks all morning could have a health warning (except for Martin that is...).

Following a chat with the skipper and a review of the dive options available to us, we single out 2 wrecks for the days diving, the Kilbulk and Frankenwald.

Kilbulk

The Kilbulk was a 177nt 57 metre long Norwegian coaster, which ran aground in bad weather in July 1987 and sank a few hours later. The wreck lies in a narrow gully with a flat bottom at a maximum depth of 39m.

11.30 am and were stepping in off the Jane R, swapping �Ok�s� etc then its off down the shot line for my first dive in Norway. First impressions are that the viz wasn�t as good as I expected, but its difficult to put any gauge on it cause of the lack of any reference point. Then the gulley and wreckage come into view in an instant and were on the wreck. The shot is tied off onto the upturned bow section of the wreck and now that there is something to look at, the viz can be seen to be in the 15m+ range. Dropping to the bottom we move forward towards the tip of the bow with its lines pointing towards the surface. There's plenty of life on and around the wreck and we spot a monk fish resting on the bottom waiting to ambush its next meal. Moving around the bow we follow it back towards the break in the hull and across an open area of sea bed towards the stern, which lies separated from the rest of the wreck and upright. We have a look around the stern then head back towards the main break in the hull with its cavernous opening inviting us in. There's plenty of room inside the hull for us to enter so in we go for a look around, although there's not really much of any interest in there, well nothing that we found anyway.

Back on the top side of the hull its time to head back to the shot line and then start our assent to the surface. Back up top the sun is shining and the Jane R bobs along to pick us up. Back on deck its all smiles and laughter as we all compare notes on the first dive of the trip.

In between dives Gordon has a few bonus adventures planned out for us and this afternoon is going to be no exception, with a bit of a stroll along a nature trail laid out for us. We moor up at a small jetty (somewhere in Norway) and head off up the road on our next adventure which will include a brisk stroll, scamble up and down a hill and a crawl through an ant infested Norwegian jungle. All in all a good afternoons entertainments (see the photies below) but not to be recommended for any whimps who are allergic to any of the following

1. pine needles
2. deodorant
3. custard
4. their wives

Time for the next dive, its located about 15 minutes from where were moored up and it�s a cracker.

Frankenwald

The Frankenwald was a German cargo ship of over 5,000tn, which sank in January 1940 after hitting the rocks and is described as one of Norways classic wrecks. The wreck sits upright and largely intact on a slightly sloping sea bed. The stern is the shallowest point being about 23 m to the top and the top of the bow being around 37m, the seabed being a further 10m or so below these points. Both masts are still upright and rise to just a few metres below the surface. The masts themselves are almost totally covered with plumose anemones and other squidgy sea critters.

divers

Heading down the shot the whole of the stern comes quickly into view with the auxillary steering wheel clearly standing proud. A bank of air cylinders at the starboard side and a block of three toilets at the port side are also clearly visible. We examine the steering wheel then drop down to the stern companion way and start making our way forward towards the stern holds which are easily accessible. Moving forward, the bridge and surrounding area rises up from the deck and provides another excellent area to swim through and still contains the captains bath . Heading towards the bow there�s a substantial amount of winches and machinery on the decks to have a look around before finally getting to the tip of the bow at 37m, with the seabed clearly visible some 10m or so below. The bow provides an excellent opportunity to swim off the wreck a few metres and look back at this huge upright wreck. Finally having headed back along the port side of the wreck and checked out those huge mast pointing towards the surface, we get back to the shot line on the stern and start the accent to the surface, we�ve been down on the wreck for 76 minutes and what an excellent dive its been.

The next day we carry out another dive on the Frakenwald and also on the Havda with a few of Gordons bonus explorations of German WW2 gun emplacements, which are quite amazing.

Day three

is upon us, almost half way through the trip and we�ve arrived at the wreck of the Wilhelm.

Welheim

I thought the Frakenwald was good, it was now time to be amazed!!!!

The Welheim was a 5,500 tn German cargo vessel and sank after being attacked and torpedoed by a Norwegian MTB in November 1944. The wreck is huge and lies on a slope on its port side. The bow is a mere 12m below the surface, while in complete contrast the stern rests in 70m of water.

Hitting the water we swim over to the marker bouy, a quick exchange of signals then we head down the shot line. 12m metres down and were sat on the seabed looking at the chain running away in the kelpy stuff on the bottom. Hmmm this is odd where the wreck???? It must be low water so best follow the chain until it runs to the wreck. Hang on this seabed is rusty!!!! A quick thump with the knife and sure enough were sat on the side of this huge ship. Moving off to the right we get to the starboard handrail and look across the width of the deck which stretches away 20m or more below us. The visibility and size of this ship are just awesome. Moving forward we go past the crane derricks which still stand up proud from the hull (albeit horizontally) along with other bits of machinery and approach the bridge area which is mainly intact and rises up several decks from the ships hull. Behind the bridge superstructure anti aircraft gun emplacement are visible and demand closer attention. All too soon its time to start our ascent back to the surface, but given the size of this wreck and its orientation there still lots to explore on this wreck all the way back to 12m. Interesting enough we pass Wendy and Amanda on our way back, strangely enough Amandas reading an insurance document, stange. Oh well, we head back up for a look around the cranes. 20m below us we can clearly see Scotty and John poking around inside the wreck and holding a bit of handrail between them � hmm another strange thing.

Eventually we get back to the shotline on the bow and head back to the surface, stopping on the way to complete our deco obligations. Back on deck there's lots of smiles and the stories of the dive are flowing, buts whats this, Scotty and John got hit by a piece of falling wreckage at 40m which pulled Scotty�s rebreather mouthpiece out and hit John on the head, �Yer a big piece of handrail,� Scotty adds.

�Oh, I wonder if it�s the one I knocked off� add a rather sheepish looking Amanda (otherwise known as Mrs Scott). Motto of the story, never tell the wife anything about insurance policies!!!

The afternoon dive seeing us putting into Flora and doing a dive on the Optima (otherwise known to us as the Cheese & Wine wreck) which is located within Flora harbour limits. Given its location this turns out to be a surprisingly interesting dive.

Day 4

arrives and the dive plan has us looking at the Svanholme and the Inga Tre

ship

11.34 and Johnnie and I hit the water first, exchange ok�s then head down the shot line. As we approach the wreck we can see that the shot line is tied off around the upper side of the stern area in about 36m of water that my computer tells me is a tropical 8 degrees c. The wreck is sitting upright with a list to port and the viz is a very respectable 20m or so once the eyes have adjusted to the light levels. We both do a check of our units, solenoids firing, plenty of gas left, plenty of no stop time, temp sticks and batteries ok. Another exchange of signals then we move across the stern having a look around the odds and ends fitted to the deck as we move to the lower port side around 40m or so. The rest of the divers join us and quickly move off ahead of us down the wreck towards the bows. Moving forward there's lots to see in the wreck as long gone decking and areas of superstructure leave clear access and view points into the various areas of the wreck. Heading towards the bow we pass the other divers in our group heading back along the shallower starboard side handrail to the stern and the shot line to the surface. Eventually we get to bow and peering over the edge at 42m we can clearly see the seabed some 8m or so below us. We head back along the centre line of the ship having a good look into the exposed areas of the wreck as we go until we finally get back to the stern and the shot line.

We�ve been down 30 minutes on this one and have a bit of deco to do on the way back up, but as everyone left us 10 � 15 minutes ago we�ve got the shot line to ourselves for a nice slow ascent back to the Jane R and a mug of tea waiting on deck. All in all the Svanholme does n�t have the mind blowing size and scale of the Welheim, but you can have a good look around it in one dive without racking up loads of deco and is definitely one of my favourites of the trip.

Time for another of Gordon�s� bonus adventures.

This time we�ve got a bit of a stroll through the Norwegian countryside to a WW2 German shore battery. The site was spread out over qite a considerable area and consisted of about 5 large artillery / gun emplacements (now less the guns), various ammunition bunkers etc and the fire control / command centre. While obviously abandoned the condition of the Command centre was incredible. Along the wall above the viewing slits the painted outline of the surrounding hills ranges with the various ranges and bearings to specific locations was still visible and various bits of equipment were still lying around. Entering the doorway on the image below there�s a concrete staircase that leads to various rooms at the higher levels, before winding its way down for maybe over 100 steps to a network of corridors and rooms well below the ground level. There�s no lighting down there so several torches are a must.

Over the course of the diving trip we saw two of these facilities and they are well worth a visit in between dives.

The afternoon dive saw us on the Inga Tre, which was another great dive. The wreck was quite a bit more broken up than the others we had dived so far, however the bow & stern section are reasonably intact and bits of engine, prop shafts and propeller are all evident. There�s also lots of life around the wreck with plenty of scallops just off the wreck.

Day 5

and we�ve got a dive lined up that MF has been excited about for the last 6 years. Two wrecks in one dive, the Ferndale and the Parot.

I�ve heard so many tales of this dive over the last 6 years that I felt I�d already done the dive and knew what to expect, how wrong I was.

We hit the water, Scotty & I exchange ok�s and head down the line. The shot line located in the mid ships area at about 26m. The wreck of the Ferndale is upright and intact. Heading over to the starboard handrail we descend further, past the wheelhouse until were on the stern around 36m. Looking out we can see the mast of the Parot rising up from the wreck below. No matter how many times I�d heard about this dive, this sight is just magical and incredible. We head over to the mast and descend down to 43m with the wreck of the Parot still a further 10m or so below us. Time for a few photos while I�m on the mast.

This pause gives me time to look down on the Parot below and look up at the hull of the Ferndale above us, absolutely awesome. Below a few of our ERD deep air trained guys head down for a look around the Parot at the 50m+ depth she sits in. For me and Scotty we take a few moments consuming the atmosphere of our location and then head back to the stern of the Ferndale. Working our way up the wreck she sits on a very steep angle, very much like the Rondo in Oban, but at not quite so severe an angle. However in Rondo fashion there is a good swim through under the hull at around 37m which we do prior to ascending up to the deck area. Following the deck up we slowly ascend to 12m or then move off the wreck onto the rock that the wreck sits on. The Jane is moored around the opposite end of wher we are which gives us a further 15 minutes of so of exploring the marine life on the rock, which is quite spectacular until we finally surface on the ladder of the Jane R.

Without doubt a truly spectacular dive.

The remaining days sees us carrying out a further dive on Ferndale & Parot and on the Jupiter on our way back to Bergen.

So what can I say about the diving in Norway,,,,,, well, lets start planning our next trip to this amazing place.

Graham McEllin